Click on the underlined words to see the pictures.

Update nov 17. 2002. Things are going slow with my Pantera suspension modification, but some new images are added. I have also added some pictures of my new oilpan.

Update march 17. 2003. Added new part about my daily driver, a 1989 Chevrolet Astro CL

Update january 31. 2005. Added new part about the engine in my Pantera.

Update feb 4. 2005. Added new part about about my 1985 DeTomaso Deauville.

Update feb. 8. 2005. Update of 351C-page.

Images:

The family cabin in Espedalen. The most beautiful place, summer as winter! Here's the mountain wiew. It was built by my parents while I was learning to walk. I bet you understand why I love to go skiing.

Here is a picture of a Chrysler PTCruiser, which I would really like to own. I drove it for a couple of hours in june 2000.
To bad it was too expensive; NKR 300.000,-. The picture also shows my parents outside their house.

This is a BMW M1 racecar which was recently imported from the USA. It's now being restored. Looking familiar?
Rearview    Engine bay
 

My toy outside the Norwegian Airforce main supply base. It's a 1971 DeTomaso Pantera. The chassis serialnumber is THPNLD01025, which means it's the 25th car built. This example have gone through extensive rust-repair and a burndown. It was restored by a previous owner, but there's still a lot to be fixed.

Modified suspension bushing for adjustability and a stiffer ride. This is a sketch, showing the principles. The bushings are made in polyurethane.
Shims are made 1 mm stainless steel. The distance tube will be made in steel and plated.

I'm doing overhaul of the rear suspension, and this shows the upright and the lower a-arm. People familiar with the Pantera will see the difference from later cars.

To make sure the ring-gear bolts doesn't back out and make a mess in the ZF-gearbox, I drilled the original bolts and locked them with aircraft safety-wire.

I made a new gear-change trunnion bearing the easy way, because the original one was worn. The liner is made out of PTFE (teflon).

Some day I hope get these babies installed on the Ford 351 Cleveland engine. They are 4 ea. Weber 48IDA's, made in the 70's.
I have bought a new manifold from Redline in Australia. It's like this one, except for the polished surface.

I have bought a new oilpan from Armando's Racing Oilpans in Los Angeles. Here are some pictures: One  Two Tree FourFive Six Seven

This is an original GT4-seat. According to information from the DeTomaso mailinglist, these seats were originally made for the production Pantera,
but were replaced by another design. The leftover frames were then covered in leather and installed in GT4's.
Pictures: One  TwoThreeFourFive

I'm going through the engine, the Ford 351C "Cleveland". Here's what I've found.

This Deauville was sold new to Norway, and might be the last one built. VIN # THDVEA02164. I bought it late in 2003.

I've done some much needed service here and there. Here's some images from the rear suspension:

Exploded view from the parts manual (which is actually all documentation that's available from the factory).
Collection of much of the small parts needed for installing upright and lower arm.
Sketch showing the rear upright bearing principle.
Preparing to press the axle out. Axle removed. Clean upright with new grease zerks installed.
Bearing shims. The new shim was installed to lower the factory preload. The correct facory method would have been
to buy a new thicker shim.
Measuring the bearing preload after installation. I got 0,5 Nm. It's easier to raise it later, than lower it.
This is the splined end of the driveshaft, which also acts as upper arm for the upright.
Lower arm, after getting internal rust prevention.
Original and modified thrust bearing washer. Since the upright is aluminum I wanted the thrust bearing to slide
on the washer, as on the Pantera. Also made some minor changes to make the o-ring seal better.

This is my daily driver, a 1989 Chevrolet Astro CL. Not the most comfortable car, but exceptionally roomy for the size.

Modifications:
To get a better weight distribution, and some more grip on slippery roads during winter, I have moved the battery to the rear end. With good help from a friend I got a batterybox welded in behind the rear axle. There is just enough room to mount two 60Ah batteries. The battery cable up front now ends in a big shiny car stereo power junction block. Here's some pictures: onetwothree

I also got help making a stainless steel box which I installed, using rivets, just behind the drivers seat. Excellent room for the car stereo booster and the battery charger in the "winterization kit". Pictures: onetwo
 

If you want to contact me, I can be reached at:  espeng@chello.no